As one of the top photographers and stylists in the Midwest fashion scene, it was a pleasure having the opportunity to chat with Chicago's very own Helen Berkun about her budding career, her sense of style, and her favorite picks at SHE.
For those who are not familiar with your work, who are some of the people you've styled? We like a little "kiss and tell"- feel free to brag.
"Oh wow, there are so many wonderful campaigns and people I've worked with...international DOVE CAMPAIGNS... BENTLEY GOLD COAST,...[John Malkovich's line] TECHNO BOHEMIAN, ERIN ANDREWS Of 'DANCING WITH THE STARS' and HGTV's MONICA PEDERSEN.Your background is in photography, and I feel that makes you more discerning of how a final shot is going to turn out. There must be a feeling of duality between the clothes looking right and a photo with perfect composition- how do you balance those two?
"...I feel like it's so natural for me to do both. I think the fact that I'm a photographer makes me a better stylist and being a stylist makes me a better photographer. The two simply go hand in hand....Most successful creatives are able to do so many different things. I always look at clothes and think about how they will photograph and not only how they will fit. I think about the way fabric will reflect or soak up the light. I'm also able to do hair and make-up if push comes to shove. If need be I can be a one stop shop that will create a final image. I think that's very important!" Much like a woman's wardrobe, a great outfit is composed of pieces from everywhere; the high mixed with the low: What portion of that does SHE fill?
"The fact is; I can get a pair of leggings here, a fantastic party dress, a leather jacket and accessories, you also seem to be like a one stop shop. I also love all the intricate lines you carry. I feel like I come into the store and I, myself, learn about all these fantastic new designers, or ones that I've never heard of. Anyone can go to Saks or Neimans and get a [Roberto] Cavalli or a Versace, however chances are you'll see the dress somewhere else or on someone else. Somehow SHE feels more personal, more unique, more special!"
Grace Coddington of Vogue has said that editorials are about telling a story, first and foremost, and that it is the job of the garments to aid in that story; a supporting role of sorts. Do you agree with that? Do the clothes come first or the story?
"...Most of the time when I'm hired to shoot or style an editorial there is already a story in place...It's my job to make that vision a reality. Therefore the story would come first and the clothes would help build the story. However when it's my own personal idea, my own vision, then yes, I think about the clothes first and the story is built around those clothes. The clothes become the main character and I always say that the models become my Marionette dolls that help me tell my story."Where do you find inspirations and concepts for your shoots?
"...anywhere and everywhere. Films, magazines, my own life. I did a fashion concept years ago called DEAD RED where I "killed myself" in fabulous designer clothes, a fashion crime scene if you will. It helped me deal with my fear of dying. I'm constantly terrified that I'll die before I can accomplish all of the things I want to accomplish. My bucket list is a rather long one!"You're pretty much running the show in terms of Midwest stylists. You style for almost every major publication produced in the area and your work has been featured in a slew of national publications- How did you get to where you are?
"Ha, you're sweet! Well, I'm a major self motivator. I'm not happy sitting at home doing nothing, I've always had very big dreams for myself. Ever since we moved to Chicago from the former USSR when I was 8 years old I felt like there was something missing here. I've always wanted to put MIDWEST on the FASHION MAP. I don't want to live in NY, PARIS or MILAN. I love where I am, I love my family and my friends and I love this city. So part of my motivation is to make that happen. To make Chicago be a big player in the fashion circuit. I know it will take time, but I have BIG DREAMS for this town."Are there specific challenges and/or advantages to being a stylist here versus, say, New York?
"Well of course the major challenge is the resources. I still deal with NY and LA on a weekly basis because we simply don't have the show rooms here to pull all the things I need for editorials. So things are constantly being shipped to me from other states."Of what shoots or specific shots you most proud of? Where can we view it?
I really love all the work I've done for Sheridan Road Magazine and also my most recent John Malkovich work. You can view all of it on my facebook fan page http://www.facebook.com/
What are you fall obsessions? Music, Literature, Movies, labels, looks, specific items?
"I'm really into collecting fashion books. So that's an obsession that never ends. I'm also really into the whole shearling, furry monster coat look. I just got a killer long haired shearling Missoni coat."
What do you think you'd be doing if not styling?
"Probably owning a boutique or having my own clothing line. I would still definitely be doing something in fashion. I'm totally obsessed!"
You have an adorable little son- what does he think about your clothing obsession? Does he have opinions on what you wear? Did your inherent gift of style pass to the next generation?"You know as much as I'm obsessed with clothes my son is really not into clothes. His favorite thing? Being naked and playing with cars! Go figure. He doesn't have much of an opinion on what I wear and he always tells me I'm beautiful when I'm in my sweats or just getting out of the shower in my robe. He'll come up and tell me how pretty I am. It just melts my heart."
What does "style" mean to you?
"In my opinion the word "STYLE" means being yourself and not entirely following the trends. I see too many women wearing trends that simply do not look flattering on their bodies and they do so simply because it's "IN STYLE". Great style is knowing who you are, knowing your body and knowing what looks bad. Great style has nothing to do with trend."
Click on our lookbooks to see Helen's SHE Picks!
Click on our lookbooks to see Helen's SHE Picks!
For more information on the fabulous Helen Berkun, check out her facebook page.
xoxo,
Team SHE
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